When redesigning a bathroom, some mistakes can be easily fixed. Others will cost plenty of time and money. These big mistakes happen more often than you’d thinkand it’s never easy to make them right. Here’s a list of basic design flaws to avoid when redesigning your bathroom.

Using non-waterproof adhesive for bathroom tiles. Inexperienced redesigners can make the mistake of believing that fitted tiles are waterproof enough, and that the adhesive doesn’t need to be. But water and condensation can pass through the cracks between even the most closely-laid tiles, damaging non-waterproof adhesive over time. Eventually, your adhesive will deteriorate and your tiles will start to crack and fall off the walls.

Bad placement of the toilet. It’s always a strange experience to use a bathroom with the toilet by the door and the sink in the far corner. To make your bathroom comfortable, you’ll want to put your toilet as far away from the door as possible.

 Not allowing room for the door. When installing the door to your bathroom, make sure it has enough space to swing open fully. Believe it or not, it’s a common mistake to install the door after the redesign and find it hits the sink and won’t open all the way. For smaller bathrooms, install a door that opens outwards.

Choosing trendy or unusual colors for permanent fixtures. The colors you choose for your tiling, toilet, shower, and bath are the colors you’ll have for yearseven decades. Tastes change, and you may not like that avocado-and-peach bathroom color scheme as much in a few years as you do right now.

In addition, the bathroom is a big selling point for any home on the market. And most real estate agents will tell you that neutral colors are better sellers. Striking bathroom colors that look lovely to you may turn off potential buyers. If you choose some trendy color combination that may not be popular in a few years, when you intend to sell, you may have to re-do your bathroom again to get the best price. To ensure you don’t have to make changes later, use neutral colors for permanent fixtures and make a design statement with towels and removable decorations.

Making water pipes difficult to access. It happens more often than most people realizeyou finish your redesign project, turn on the shower, and see water pouring from the walls. If this happens, your plumber may have to destroy your tiling to get at your leaking pipesunless you have access panels installed. Make your pipes easily accessible, and you’ll be glad for it later.

Not using a shower tray. It’s been a design trend for smaller contemporary bathrooms to build a shower without a tray, to give the bathroom a more spacious, open feeling. But this design can go bad quickly. If your shower area isn’t perfectly slanted so that the water gets drained efficiently, your entire bathroom floor could be flooded. The bottom line? Use a glass shower door to give a feeling of spaciousness and depth. Don’t skip the shower tray.

Poor ventilation. Many bathrooms don’t have a good ventilation system. This means that the condensation from showers and baths will stay in the room, making a moist, wet environment perfect for growing mold. Even if your bathroom has a window, don’t count on leaving it open to alleviate the problemmost people feel it compromises their privacy, and prefer not to leave it open in colder months. Make sure your bathroom design includes a vent to the outside, with an electric fan that either switches on and off easily or activates automatically.

Inadequate storage. There’s never enough storageespecially in the bathroom, where lots of washing and grooming materials, linens, and other items must be kept in a small space. Pedestal sinks can be very attractive, but don’t add much storage space. Make sure your bathroom design plans include cabinets or closets, and more space than you think you’ll need. In addition, leave some space if you can for free-standing shelves or cabinets, so you can add more storage space later if your needs increase.

Slippery floors. No matter what material you use for your bathroom floor, make sure it’s slip-resistanteven when wet. Don’t count on using a throw rug, as these can fail to cover the entire area that gets wet during a bath or steamy shower. Making sure your floors are non-slip is especially important when a child, a pregnant woman, or anyone with a physical handicap lives in your home.

Your bathroom is more than a ‘necessary room’if designed properly, it can be a relaxing oasis in a busy home. Avoid these design mistakes at the start, and it’ll be less likely you’ll have to spend money and time fixing expensive mistakes after your redesign project is finished.

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BATH PANELS – TYPES & FITTING GUIDE

The following is intended as a guide only and cannot be taken as a definitive or binding document. Manufacturers’ instructions when available should be followed, and the installer should be qualified and have an amount of experience and ability.
Bath panels are available in several materials, and the usage as well as the bath installation should be fully considered when selecting a panel.

Acrylic panels – Main advantage waterproof.

These are moulded sheets manufactured by the bath companies to accompany their bath ranges. The sizes are limited and will allow little or no adjustment to height; it is therefore imperative that they are supplied for fitting at the same time as the bath.
The fitter must check that the height restriction will not affect the plumbing requirements ,and that the floor is relatively level. An allowance for the thickness of the floor covering should also be considered.
Some acrylic panels are supplied with clips that fit to the floor or under the bath rim, but it is advisable that a sub frame is constructed to keep the panel in place and assist reinforcement. Front and end panel combinations are relatively easy as most acrylic panels have moulded ends for this reason. Use ‘Velcro’ to hold the panel in place which allows easy access to the plumbing.
Cut with a fine tooth saw if necessary.

Aftercare – Clean with soap and water.
Small scratches can be polished out with a rubbing compound.

Veneered or ‘wrapped’ panels – often available with loose plinths which allow height adjustment.

The usual thickness of these panels is between 15 and 20mm, which means that with some bath constructions the support legs and cradles can obstruct the panel. An initial check is advisable, remembering to take into consideration the loose plinth which is fixed to the back of the main panel (effectively doubling the thickness at this point). A flush finish is advised. Although it is not incorrect to have the panel protruding over the bath rim, this will result in water collecting on the ledge and, in time, penetrating the panel.
Although these panels are relatively solid, a sub frame of at least floor and wall battens should be used.

The advantage of a loose plinth cannot be under estimated. With the correct order of installation being recommended as:

1. The bath

2. The plumbing.

3. The floor covering

4. The bath panel

As the panel is left until last it needs to fit precisely. A loose plinth allows the tolerance lost with a fixed panel.

Adjusting the height of the panel with a loose plinth.

Measure the panel and plinth height, and allow for the plinth to fit and fix behind the main panel with a suitable overlap (normally a minimum of 40mm); this gives the maximum height. Now measure the height of the bath from the floor to under the rim at both ends; if these vary and the bath is level then the floor is probably out. If the floor is not yet fitted, it is best not to fit the bath panel, but an allowance could be made if the schedule won’t permit the delay.

Cutting the panel.

Wherever possible cutting should be avoided. It compromises the water resistance of the finish, and can allow water behind the finish, causing lifting, and will also allow water into the sub structure of the panel. Take special care when fitting a sectioned or detailed panel into a recess, to centralise the panel, by cutting both sides equally.
Where cuts are necessary mark and score the line to be cut to avoid splintering. Use a fine tooth saw.

Seal all cuts with a waterproof varnish; failure will invalidate the warranty.
Silicone along these cuts when the panel is fitted as it is inevitable they will be splashed.
If the bath or its frame prevents the panel sitting completely under the rim, the panel can be notched or machine rebated (if the obstruction runs the full length of the bath as with softwood strengthening battens fitted under the rim of many baths). A rebate must never be more than half the thickness of the panel frame, or encroach into any panelled detail which is thinner than the frame. The rebate must then be sealed with varnish and the top edge with silicone sealant.

Product Aftercare

Always remove water splashes after use. Use only a soft cloth.
On polyurethane or other manmade finishes use soap and a soft cloth. On wood and wood veneers check any cleaners used are suitable.
Never use bleach, neat disinfectant or household bathroom cleaners.

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Want to save the planet and some money at the same time? Here’s a list of things you can do to cut your monthly energy bill down to size.

1 Switch to Compact Fluorescent bulbs. Fluorescent bulbs use 1/4 the energy of traditional incandescent bulbs and last six times longer. They also give off much less heat than incandescent bulbs, thus keeping your home cooler in the summer.

2 Avoid "phantom power" by unplugging electronics when not in use. You can plug them into a power strip with an on/off switch to make this easy. Phantom power can add up to about 10 percent of your home’s energy use, or about one month of your electricity use each year. 75% of the electricity used to power home electronics is consumed while the products are turned off.

3 Install a programmable thermostat. It will help you automatically regulate your energy usage, which will save you about $150 annually. Programmable thermostats are also a plus for the environment because they contain no mercury and are eco-friendly.

4 If you have an electric water heater, switch to natural gas. Electric water heaters use twice as much energy).

5 Replace your old appliances with Energy Star appliances. Efficiency levels of Energy Star appliances are 20 to 75 percent higher than older models.

6 Use your microwave instead of your conventional oven. Microwaves are much more electricity efficient. A conventional oven uses a lot of energy to heat up and to stay hot.

7 Use caulking and weather-striping around all doors and windows. Heat and cold that finds it way into your home means you have to use more air conditioning and heating.

8 Once a month, change your air conditioner’s filters. This helps save your unit from working as hard and also keeps the air in your home cleaner.

9 Lower the temperature of your water heater, and wrap it in an insulating blanket. Most heaters are set at 140 degrees F, 120 will do just fine. When using an insulating blanket, just be sure not to block exhaust vents, air intakes and thermostat access panels. And, newer water heaters may not need an insulation wrap; check the manufacturer’s instructions.

10 Have your air conditioner cleaned and inspected. This will help your air conditioner to run more efficiently during the summer. Dirty condensor coils can cause your A/C to blow out less cool air, and it will cause your A/C to work harder to cool your home.

11 Wash your clothes in cold water using cold water detergents whenever possible. Laundry detergents, not the water temperature, whiten your clothes.

12 Operate your dishwasher with a full load and select an energy-saving cycle whenever possible. Use the "air dry" or "overnight dry" setting.

13 Replace your old computer monitor with a new flat panel. Flat panel monitors use less energy than standard monitors.

14 Use your laptop instead of a desktop computer. Laptops use 10 percent or less of the electricity consumed by typical desktop computers.

15 Most fireplaces that are open to the living space will increase winter heating costs. Do not use a fireplace during periods of extreme cold. Keep your fireplace damper closed tightly when not in use. Consider installing doors over the fireplace opening to cut down on drafts and heat loss through the chimney.

16 One of the easiest things to do is get yourself into the habit of turning off appliances and lights that aren’t in use. This seems obvious, but take an inventory of your house one night. Are the kids leaving the lights on even when they aren’t in the room? Is someone taking off to run errands while the television continues playing in the living room?

17 Keep your doors and vents shut in rooms that are not being used. There is no need to spend money cooling off rooms that are not being used – this can be a huge savings depending on how many square feet you have in your house.

18 Replace windows with double-pane glass that has a low U-factor. The lower the U-factor, the less transmission of heat or cold and the greater your savings on energy costs.

19 Your local power company probably has a "Time of Use" program. This means you’ll be charged more for electricity during prime times and less during off hours. When you switch to this program, the power company will install a new meter. You may be able to save as much as $500 a year with this idea.

20 Install a clothesline and use the suns warmth to dry your clothes. Your clothes will last longer and smell fresh. Best of all, it’s free!

21 Use ceiling fans. Moving air tends to feel cooler, allowing for higher summertime thermostat settings. The effect is equivalent to lowering the air temperature by about 4 F (2 C), and using less energy than air conditioners in doing so.

22 Let the sun shine in. During winter time, try to let in as much sunlight as possible. It will reduce the need for heaters.

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All mechanic devices need regular maintenance if you want them to continue working for years to come. When an air conditioning unit is not maintained properly, it will break down some day in the near future. When it breaks down, you will need to pay a lot more money for a major repair when compared to regular servicing.

Now, let us discuss top 6 ways to maintain your air conditioning unit:

1.Make sure there is nothing covering the condensing unit. This is to ensure that it can draw air into the cooling system and cool the room effectively. If you found that you have stored some items near or on the condensing unit, you should remove them right away.

2.Change your air filters regularly. This is the most important thing that you must do in order to maintain your aircon unit properly. Filters that are not clean will reduce efficiency of your aircon unit and cause it to work harder. This will increase your monthly electrical bill. Keeping your filters clean can keep your home cooler, as well as saving you money and repair costs.

3.Check the access panels. You need to ensure that access panels are in place and properly secured. You should also remove all impediments near the exterior of your air conditioning unit.

4.Check your thermostat. Your thermostat should be set to cooling mode if you want your home to be cooler.

5.Always check your air conditioning unit way ahead of time. You will not want to find out that your air conditioning unit is not working on a warm and humid day. Therefore, maintain a good habit to always check your aircon unit routinely. Let it run for a few minutes and ensure that it is working properly. If it is not working, at least you still have the time to look for an aircon servicing company to service your unit.

6.Hire a professional air conditioning servicing company to clean your unit. If you want your aircon unit to perform at the highest level of efficiency, you will have to keep it clean. You can always outsource this work to a professional aircon servicing company to handle this tedious job for you.

These are 6 ways to maintain the air conditioning unit of your home. If things are not too complicated, you can do the maintenance yourself. However, if it involves cleaning of sockets and other more complicated parts of your unit, you should always outsource this job to a professional technician.

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Ok you have designed your basement and come up with a winning floor plan! You have corrected any moisture or water problems. You laid-out your walls using the floor plan and permanently chalked lined those wall locations on the concrete floor in locations where they will be built.

Now it’s time to talk about that "ceiling-scape"! What is the "ceiling-scape you ask? Well that’s my new word for what’s really UGLY overhead in the basement, the UGLY that’s going to need to be hidden away from our view!

What are we going to do about these duct-work runs, and all these pipes and wires running 10 different ways? We can’t just cover them with new drywall! What is our next plan of action for hiding the UGLY "ceiling-scape" of our basement to make it both functional and pleasing to the eyes?

Well we are going to FRAME our way right around all of it, and it’s really very simple to do! Looking at it now it might seem a little overwhelming, but what we will do is break the ceiling framing down into a few stages, starting with the framing of the duct-work 1st!

Let’s quickly go through the mechanics of framing-in our duct-work:
1.) 1st build 2 "ladders" of framing from 2"x4"’s to cover each side of the duct-work run from "end-to-end". Make sure you make the bottom of these ladders 2" lower than the bottom of the duct-work!

2.) Next, chalk a line on the bottom of the floor joists overhead 5" away from the widest section of your duct-work on both sides of the duct-work run.

3.) Next lift up your framing ladders you just built and position them on the chalk line you just snapped on the floor joists overhead. Holding the ladders in place fasten them to the ceiling by nailing them up with 16 penny hand nails or by shooting them up with your framing air-gun.

4.) Once all ladders are in place from end-to-end on both sides of the duct-work, we now quickly level these ladders and temporarily " hold them "plumb" with a few "kickers (short pieces of wooden bracing). Once both sides of ladders are nice and straight and plumb, we can now "cross over" the bottom of the duct-work with 2"x4"’s by installing them "flat ways" between the two sides of ladders that we just finished installing. This "crossing-over" of framing on the bottom of the duct-work will "tie-in" this framing structure making it sturdy and secure thus completing the framing-in of all of our duct-work This framing is now "Drywall Ready"!

5.) Next we will tackle the remaining sections of the "ceiling-scape" which is the areas that are left between the framed walls and the sides of the duct-work "Framing Ladders" that we just finished installing in the previous step. Here we usually have Water pipes. electrical wires, waste pipes, misc. cables, phones lines, etc., all kinds of stuff that’s keeping us from being able to just hang our drywall ceilings with ease!

Solution? Simply "fir-down"(or make lower) these sections of "ceiling-scape" with 2"x4"’s! Just nail-up long 16′-0" sections of 2"x4"’s from end-to-end in all of these areas, running them parallel with the duct-work runs (perpendicular to the existing floor joists). By doing this we make these sections of ceiling 1-1/2" lower, and this gets all of our framing below all the pipes and wires that used to be our drywall’s road! We can now drywall right over everything that used to be in our way with ease!

6.) Remember to tie a piece of caution tape on any water shutoffs, gas shutoffs, outside faucet shut offs, or anything else that you will want to access later after the drywall is permanently hung! Otherwise you will never be able to access these important items at a later date. Just tie caution tape right on the handles or the center of all of the items you will need to access later, then when the drywall ceiling is being hung, just cut a 2" hole out of the drywall so that the caution tape can be pulled through that hole. After the drywall is finished and paint-ready we will be installing finished plastic access panels at each of these locations so we can easily access all of our mechanical items forever!

IN THE DRYWALL CEILING WE ALWAYS ALWAYS CREATE ACCESS TO ALL OF THE ITEMS THAT WE WILL POSSIBLY NEED TO GET ACCESS TOO AT A LATER DATE! THIS IS HUGELY IMPORTANT!

That’s just a few of the tricks and Tips you will need to properly layout and frame a basement ceiling for drywall! In another basement finishing video series I go into much more detail on tackling finishing your ceiling spaces!

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A country house, a penthouse apartment, a modest home with a pretty garden – wherever you live, your doors and windows are a lifestyle choice that, if given careful consideration,can bring lasting pleasure.

French Doors.

Wood-framedFrench doors will enhance a cottage in keeping with its origins andare loved by traditionalists. Styles vary from plain glass or half-glazedto Georgian panes, Victorian decorative glass panels and leaded-light. The wood itself can be softwood, such as pine, orhardwood, such as oak. Wood-framedFrench doors are available ‘off the shelf’ for d.i.y or professional installation. They are usually unfinished, which means that they can be stained or painted to suit.

In the UK, French doors usually open outwards, away from the house. Whilst this helps rainwater run off rather than run in, it makes the use of outside shutters very difficult. In France, for example, the doors open inwards so that shutters can then be accessed from the inside to open outwards. Shutters are better at keeping out hot sun and bright lightthan curtains, they can even be kept securely closed on hot nights with the doors wide open on the inside, allowing air to circulate. The downside of this arrangement is that on dull winter days, the doors have to be opened despite the cold, in order to open and close the shutters each morning and evening.

French doors need not be quaint and made of wood. There are modern 20th Century PVC versions, usually in white, often with a choice of plain orpaneled glazing, which are still popular today because they can be produced very cheaply and are seen to require less maintenance than wood. There used to a ‘Crittal’ style metal version of French doors, popular in the 1960s but, though sturdy,these were very bad insulators with single glazing and appalling condensation problems.

During the late 20th Century, a better solution emerged, using powder-coated aluminium. Today’s ‘metal’ French doors are manufactured using thermally broken architectural aluminium and K-glass double-glazed units for with high insulation properties. The powder-coating comes in a range of more than 40 colour options although white is the general standard. In addition to the tradtional centre opening French doors, these can be ordered as bi-folding doors with a side opening to the right or left and folding inwards or outwards.

This begins to open up possibilities of having much wider openings for French doors. For example, a single door of a standard pair would be straining the hinges at three feet wide but a pair of bi-folding doors could easily be in excess of twelve feet wide. And why stop there?

Patio Doors.

The 1970s saw the popularity of sliding patio doors. A great idea at the time butthe eventual wrestling match to slide the doors open or closeddampened thethrill of having so much light flooding into the room. Improvements were made to the sliding or gliding mechanism over time but for every three feet of open doorway there was another three feet of double-double-glazed barrier as half the patio door became a patio window.

Bifolding Doors.

Very popular today, bifolding doors are available with wooden, plastic or metal frames. Bifolding doors combine the best of French doors with the best of patio doors to create a product that is better than the sum of its parts. A metal-framed bifolding door can span an opening of six or seven metres, most of it totally accessible when all the doors are open.

Think of bifolding doors as a set of multiple-fold French doors. When open, there is nothing obstructing the view or the access from inside to outside. When closed, the door panels form a virtual glass wall. Aluminium frames give the best view because the strength of the metal enables the frame width and profile to be considerably slimmer than either plastic or wooden frames, therefore allowing a higher percentage of glass for your viewing pleasure and, of course, for maximum natural light flow. Each of the aluminium door panels can be up to one metre wide.

Whilstan abundance ofnatural light is wonderful most of the time, consideration needs to be given to those times when curtains, shutters or blinds are desirable. Externally, traditional woodenshutters are not feasible for wide spans of bifolding doors but it may be possible to have roller (security) shutters fitted to the outside wall above the doors.These would be effective against light (and vandalism) but could be considered ugly and put off prospective future buyers.

Inside the home, seven metres of curtain material can be very heavy to hang and to open fully to the sides. Alternatives may include vertical blinds on custom-made long tracks for wide openings, a series of Venetian, pleatedor roller blinds on the ceiling or wall above the doors, or sliding blinds. Sliding blinds are panels of celing-to-floor fabric blinds thatare fixed to a ceiling-mounted channel.Typically, apackof sliding blinds has a maximum total width of 4.5 metres,half of which may be blocked by the stacked blindsso there could be considerable access problems.

The most convenient option is to order integral blinds with the doors. A choice of pleated or Venetian blinds can be sealed inside the sealed double-glazed unit. Using an electronic remote control or the cheaper option of magnetic manual pull-string, the blinds are operated in the normal way. They can be fullyretracted upwards for an open view ordropped down to a fully closed position. Integral Venetian blinds can also be slanted in any direction, as usual, so that the amount of sunlight can be controlled whilst retaining some of the view.

Glass Curtains.

And finally, another new product has been launched for the 21st Century, enabling even more glass-to-frame ratio and allowing more flexibility in terms of maximum width (theoretically, none) and where to open up the doors. Even with bifolding doors, there has to be an opening – a defined point where doors meet each other or the wall. With Glass Curtains, however, concepts have changed.

There are two categories of Glass Curtains. The original is atoughened glass,single-glazed, totally frameless option that is suitable as a room divider or as an enclosure for balconies or covered areas where thermal compliance is unnecessary. The latest version is double-glazed with a very small frame, necessary to hold the twopanels of the glazed unittogether. Both versions of the product operate in the same way.

Each glass panel can unlock, open, slide and turn individually. This means that they can all be stacked to one side oftheaperture or spaced out with walk-through gaps wherever they are required. The effect can be stunning.

Summary.

Which doors are right for your home?

• French doors,
• Patio doors,
• Bifolding doors or
• Glass curtains?

What frames are in or out of the shortlist?

• Hardwood/softwood frames,
• Plastic/PVC frames or
• Metal/aluminium?

When making your decision, consider:

• Your budget,
• Total price of purchase, delivery, installation and any decorating
• Availability/timescale,
• Durability/longevity of the product,
• Visual appeal andliveability,
• Investment value/saleability,
• Future maintenance (eg. re-varnishing wood)

Make the rightchoice for your lifestyle.

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The most common type of lighting used in paint spray booths are panel mounted fluorescent lighting fixtures. The fixtures are actually mounted and recessed in the booth panels. These fixtures are commonly Class I, Division 2 or Class I, Division 1 rated fixtures and are third party listed for hazardous locations. Class I, Division 2 locations are those where volatile flammable liquids or gases are handled, processed, or used. Normally, they will be confined within closed systems from which they can escape only in the case of rupture or deterioration of the systems.

Panel mounted design provides a simple and efficient means of installation. These fixtures are typically constructed of either 18 or 20 gauge steel construction. Coupled with a white baked enamel finish, a durable and highly reflective fixture finish is created. A clear, tempered safety glass lens is sealed and gasketed to ensure a durable, long lasting seal against vapor, dust, and moisture. Commonly used fixtures of this type used in paint spray booths are 4 lamp, 4-foot fixtures with 32, 40, or 60-watt HO lamps, with 40-watt lamps being the most commonly used. The fixtures will normally have an inside, rear, or dual inside/rear access hinged door panel for the purpose of servicing the lamps and ballasts. In fixtures with an inside access, an interlock switch is provided and is to be wired in such a way as to disable paint spray equipment when the inside access panel is opened. This enables the fixture to be mounted in spray booth panels without the previously required second lens. In instances where a non-hazardous rated fixture is used, these must be mounted behind a sealed stationary mounted lens. These fixtures can only be serviced from the outside of the booth.

Hazardous rated fixtures must, by code, be used in areas that extend from the edges of any opening of the booth in accordance with the following:

* If the exhaust ventilation system is interlocked with the spray application equipment, then the Division 2 location shall extend 5 feet horizontally and 3 feet vertically from the open face or open front of the booth.

* If the exhaust ventilation system is not interlocked with the spray application equipment, then the Division 2 location shall extend 10 feet horizontally and 3 feet vertically from the open face or open front of the booth. The term interlocked means that the spray application equipment cannot be operated unless the exhaust ventilation system is operating and functioning properly and spray application is automatically stopped if the exhaust ventilation system fails.

If fluorescent light fixtures are actually mounted inside a paint spray booth and are not recessed panel mounted, then Class I, Division 1 explosion proof fixtures must be used. These fixtures are typically available with 2, 3, or 4 lamps in 2 foot or 4 foot length fixtures. A Class I, Division 1 location is defined as where hazardous atmosphere may be present during normal operations. It may be present continuously, intermittently, periodically, or during normal repair or maintenance operations, or those areas where a breakdown in processing equipment releases hazardous vapors with the simultaneous failure of electrical equipment.

When actually selecting light fixtures for a paint spray booth, it is important to think about what you want to achieve and to get an even distribution of lighting in the booth. There are many factors that can influence lighting levels in a spray booth application. In order to help select the right fixtures, the following information is important to know:

Booth Information

* Is the application retrofit or new?

* What are the inside dimensions of the booth? (To include width, length, and depth.)

* What is the specific booth design?

* If a retrofit situation, what are the type and number of existing lights in the booth?

* For servicing, do you want the lights to be inside access, outside access, or both?

* Does the existing booth have a hipped ceiling? If yes, what is the hip size and degree? Are there lights in the hip, and is it possible to add lights to the hip?

* Does an existing booth have corner chambers, and what are the sizes?

* What construction is the booth floor?

* What materials are used for booth construction in the floor, walls, and ceiling, and what are the specific colors?

* Are there man-doors in the booth walls? If so, where?

* Are there any windows or translucent panels? If so, where?

* Are the filters located in the floor, ceiling, or booth walls?

Objects

* What types of products are normally painted?

* What are the shapes of the products (square, round, rectangular, etc.)?

* What is the largest object in terms of width, height, and depth?

* What is the smallest object in terms of width, height, and depth?

* What colors are primarily painted?

With this information, light fixture manufacturers can use computer programs to help determine the recommended number and placement of the fixtures.; As a rule of thumb, 100 foot-candles at a 3-foot height has been a general industry standard. If a different foot-candle level is desired to be maintained at a different height, this should be communicated to your lighting supplier. Light intensity measured on a plane, at a specific location, is referred to as illuminance. Illuminance is measured in foot-candles, which essentially are lumens per square foot. Other factors such as reflectance of surrounding surfaces, fixture efficiency, and lamp lumen output can influence the type and quantity of needed light fixtures. As mentioned earlier, the size of a paint booth also can influence the size of the fixtures. In larger booths, such as truck paint spray booths, 4 lamp, 8-foot length fixtures featuring 95 or 110-watt HO lamps are sometimes desired. The type of a booth can also influence the choice of fixtures. Slim light fixtures that feature a compact design, which are just 2 1/4-in. fixture depth, allow for mounting in an insulated panel.

The ability to see colors properly is another aspect of lighting quality. Light sources vary widely in their ability to accurately reflect true colors of objects. The color rendering index (CRI) scale is used to compare the effect of a light source on the color appearance of its surroundings. A scale of 0 to 100 defines CRI. The higher the color rendering index, the less color shift or distortion that occurs. As an example, a standard cool white T12 (1.5′ diameter) fluorescent lamp with a Kelvin temperature of approximately 4100oK has a CRI of 62, which is considered low. Where quality or color matching is important, a higher CRI rated lamp will normally be needed. As a general rule of thumb, the higher the CRI, the lower the efficiency of the lamp. It is important that a balanced approach be used when considering CRI, lamp lumen output, and efficiency of the lamp.

For many years, the lighting standard has been F40T12 fluorescent lamps. These are 40 watt, 1.5′ diameter lamps. Through technological advances, lamps have been developed that consume less energy, produce better quality and higher levels of light, such as T8 (1′ diameter) lamps. The T5 (5/8′ diameter) lamps, which are starting to be introduced to the U.S. market, show even more promising results concerning maintained lumen output over the life of the lamp, energy savings, and they operate more efficiently at higher ambient temperatures than T8 or T12 lamps.

Once the light fixtures have been installed in the spray booth, care must be taken to prevent dirt accumulation and paint over-spray buildup on the fixture lenses. If not removed on a continual basis, this will degrade the overall lighting quality in a booth. A simple, effective light fixture lens covering is cling-on plastic film. This is a 3 mil plastic with a custom acrylic adhesive in 12" and 18" widths. It is easy and quick to install and remove. A total re-lamping program should also be considered as lamps reach the end of their life.

In conclusion, lighting selection in a paint spray booth should not be taken for granted. Different applications can require different light properties. To correctly match the proper lamp, ballast, and fixture combination, you should consult and work closely with your lighting supplier before making your lighting selection. One such manufacturer of fluorescent lighting for paint spray booths and hazardous industrial locations is LDPI Lighting. They specialize in this area and are an acknowledged industry leader in providing lighting solutions for paint booths and hazardous industrial locations.

http://www.ldpi-inc.com/main-site/technical/articles/fundamentals.html
Written by Mike Singer, as seen in Metal Finishing, May 1999

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Keyless door locks accept credentials other than the traditional metal key. The advantage becomes apparent when it’s time to "change the locks". In the past, building owners would literally have to dismantle the old locks, install new ones and distribute new keys. This is extremely inefficient compared to keyless door locks that can be changed digitally without having to physically replace the lock installation.

There are a number of occasions where building managers have to change the locks. It could be that a set of master keys are missing and there is a looming danger of building invasion. It could be that an employee quit their job and did not bother to return their keys. With keyless door locks, only a physically damaged lock would merit its actual replacement. Otherwise, the key can be changed digitally using the access panel or a computer.

Even a broken lock is more convenient with keyless locks since there’s no need to redistribute or even reprogram keys. Instead the new lock can be programmed to accept the old keys, which adds an a higher level of convenience for building and security administrators.

For keyless locks that accept PIN codes, changing the locks can be as easy as emailing the new code to relevant parties. For sophisticated locks that use prox cards or key fobs, changing the locks means a simple reprogramming of the access keys. Other systems use biometrics. In this case, the biometric scans can be added or removed from the system’s database in a matter of seconds.

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Bathroom repair is easier with access panels

Soon after I had remodeled my small bathroom it developed a water leak. The first thing I knew about it was a puddle on the floor of the room below. A water pipe was leaking and it was buried in one of the bathroom walls which not only made it difficult to find out where the leak was but a lot of ceramic tiles had to be destroyed to get at it.

When I asked my bathroom contractors why they didn’t make it easier to get at the new pipe work they said that it would have made my quotation too expensive so they just buried the pipes and hoped that they don’t give any trouble. It was just my luck then that my bathroom was the one where they made lousy joints. The bathroom repair turned out to be far more costly than it would have been to make all the pipes accessible in the first place and I wish now that I’d had the foresight to put that in the specifications.

Where to put access panels

The obvious solution to the bathroom repair problem is to provide access panels for all of the pipe work joints and as much of the pipe length as possible. When you specify what you want in your bathroom remodel make sure that you will be able to get at every joint easily.

Where the water pipes are installed in a separating wall it’s often convenient to provide access on the other side of the wall rather than inside the bathroom where the ceramic tiles are. You may even be able to turn the access into a small cupboard, which would give you an added benefit. Opening the cupboard doors would provide simple access to the water pipes.

Pipe work under bathtub and under floor can be made accessible by removable panels. Make sure that the floor covering allows for this and a suitable sealer is used to fill any gaps when the access is closed.

If the access panel has to go on the bathroom side of the wall then special attention to waterproofing will be required.

How to make access panels in ceramic tiles

To accommodate a radiator in my bathroom remodel the contractors built a false wall to hide the pipe work. This wall was then set with ceramic tiles and the radiator mounted in front of the tiles. This pipe work has not leaked but I do wonder what I would do if it ever did.

Tiling a small part of the false wall separately on a removable section could have provided an access panel. This would then be screwed firmly to the main part of the wall and the edges sealed with a silicon-sealing compound. The screws would pass through the tiles so silicon sealer would be used to seal the screw heads and holes in the tiles. When the need arose the sealer could be stripped away and the panel unscrewed. Resealing when the problem was fixed would be just as easy.

For more bathroom remodeling tips take a look at this article on setting bathroom tiles:
Setting Ceramic Tile Made Easy

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Bathroom repair is easier with access panels

Soon after I had remodeled my small bathroom it developed a water leak. The first thing I knew about it was a puddle on the floor of the room below. A water pipe was leaking and it was buried in one of the bathroom walls which not only made it difficult to find out where the leak was but a lot of ceramic tiles had to be destroyed to get at it.

When I asked my bathroom contractors why they didn’t make it easier to get at the new pipe work they said that it would have made my quotation too expensive so they just buried the pipes and hoped that they don’t give any trouble. It was just my luck then that my bathroom was the one where they made lousy joints. The bathroom repair turned out to be far more costly than it would have been to make all the pipes accessible in the first place and I wish now that I’d had the foresight to put that in the specifications.

Where to put access panels

The obvious solution to the bathroom repair problem is to provide access panels for all of the pipe work joints and as much of the pipe length as possible. When you specify what you want in your bathroom remodel make sure that you will be able to get at every joint easily.

Where the water pipes are installed in a separating wall it’s often convenient to provide access on the other side of the wall rather than inside the bathroom where the ceramic tiles are. You may even be able to turn the access into a small cupboard, which would give you an added benefit. Opening the cupboard doors would provide simple access to the water pipes.

Pipe work under bathtub and under floor can be made accessible by removable panels. Make sure that the floor covering allows for this and a suitable sealer is used to fill any gaps when the access is closed.

If the access panel has to go on the bathroom side of the wall then special attention to waterproofing will be required.

How to make access panels in ceramic tiles

To accommodate a radiator in my bathroom remodel the contractors built a false wall to hide the pipe work. This wall was then set with ceramic tiles and the radiator mounted in front of the tiles. This pipe work has not leaked but I do wonder what I would do if it ever did.

Tiling a small part of the false wall separately on a removable section could have provided an access panel. This would then be screwed firmly to the main part of the wall and the edges sealed with a silicon-sealing compound. The screws would pass through the tiles so silicon sealer would be used to seal the screw heads and holes in the tiles. When the need arose the sealer could be stripped away and the panel unscrewed. Resealing when the problem was fixed would be just as easy.

For more bathroom remodeling tips take a look at this article on setting bathroom tiles:
Setting Ceramic Tile Made Easy

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In much of online research, the random probability sampling model is further corrupted by the use of access panels. An access panel typically comprises fewer than 5% of the population, …   Read more…

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